Read more about Embroidery Myths

Myth number 1
I need to know how to sew to use an embroidery machine.

Reality
It is entirely unnecessary to know how to construct a garment or even a pillow for that matter. Beyond threading the embroidery machine and loading a bobbin, there isn’t much in common between the two. With embroidery, the machine guides the fabric. My friend was my first “embroidery machine operator” and he didn’t know the first thing about sewing machines or sewing—nor could he tell a knit from a woven!—yet he quickly picked up the technique.

Myth number 2
When hooping, always stretch fabric tight as a drum in the hoop and tighten the screw as much as possible for embroidery.

Reality
Stretching fabric during hooping distorts most fabrics resulting in puckering once the fabric relaxes back to its natural size when it is removed from the hoop. This puckering is magnified when sewing with polyester thread, especially if your embroidery machine tensions are too tight and you are sewing at a high speed. Exceptions to the no stretching rule include Lycra and other fabrics that are worn stretched on the body, which should be stretched to that degree in the hoop.

Tightening the screw does not evenly distribute tension around the perimeter of the hoop. In fact, it actually loosens the fabric in the area of the screw! Don’t believe me? Try it yourself. Hoop a piece of fabric in a loosened hoop, then tighten the screw. Gently run your fingers over the hooped fabric and you’ll notice it feels spongy near the screw.

Myth number 3
Use 1 tearaway for wovens, 2 for knits. The thinner the fabric, the heavier the stabilizer; the heavier the fabric, the thinner the stabilizer.

Reality
Ahhh, if only it were this simple! However, there are no “rules” for selecting backings. Your choice should be based on fabric stability and the design selected. For example, sweatshirts are thicker than nylon organza but sweatshirts are stretchy and organza is stable. You may only need stabilizer for organza to keep it from slipping through the hoop since it is so thin and slippery. Design size and stitch count and/or density also affect stabilizer choice. A “low impact” design such as redwork or appliqué requires less stabilization than a “high impact” design. The latter includes designs with registration critical details (running stitch outline) and/or designs with high stitch counts, large fills, layers of stitches (lots of shading and/or highlights), or fills running in many varying angles.

Tip: if you are new, use cutaway for everything!

Myth number 4
Serger thread makes the perfect bobbin thread for embroidery.

Reality
As in baking, the best embroidery is achieved when using appropriate “ingredients.” Bobbin thread for embroidery is

The right weight (approximately 60 wt)
The right strength
Smooth and slub-free
Made for embroidery!

Myth number 5
A good design sews out perfectly on

Any machine
Any fabric
Any color
Any texture
Every time
If it doesn’t then it is a digitizer problem (“bad” design).

Reality
No design sews absolutely “perfectly”—ever! Embroidery is an art, art is not perfect. Consider, too, that the hoop is moving and the fabric is being distorted by the tension of the stitches pulling and pushing it. That said there is obviously a difference between “good” embroidery and “bad.” Producing a professional looking result is a partnership between the digitizer and the embroiderer. Factors that can affect embroidery quality include:

Needle can be deflected by previous stitches or the weave of the fabric forcing a stitch to be created “off”

Thread tensions/jerks can cause a needle deflection
An old/dull/damaged needle can cause skipped stitches
Overly tight needle/bobbin can cause gaps and poor alignment, known as registration issues
Poor hooping techniques can result in fabric slipping during embroidery
Poor selection/use of backings and toppings can cause gaps and poor alignment
The wrong fabric/design combination can result in a disaster, at worst
Textured fabrics and high contrast colors require different digitizing techniques than “average” fabrics
Proper digitizing is only a small part of producing high quality embroidery!

Myth number 6
When outlines are off, it always means a poorly digitized design.

Reality
Reputable companies test their designs (how do you think they get the pictures of their embroidery for their catalogs?) Outlines may be misregistered due to:

Fabric slipping in the hoop
Backing breaking down and compromising stability before outline sews
Backing not stable enough for fabric
Needle/bobbin tensions too tight and causing excessive pulling
Solutions
Test design on a stable, neutral colored fabric with the fabric grain running up and down.
Make sure the machine is clean, tensions are “perfect,” and the needle is new
Make sure the fabric does not slip in hoop
Sew on kettle cloth, broadcloth, or the fabric recommended with 1 cutaway
Don’t expect “perfection” but do demand quality
Needle deflections will cause slight deviations
If it sews well, it is not a design problem.

Myth number 7
Always use a size 90 embroidery needle.

Reality
You should use a needle that is large enough to carry the thread through the fabric without damage to either thread or fabric. This means finer threads/fabrics require a finer needle while heavier threads/fabrics use a heavier needle. I find that for heavy or sturdy fabrics, I switch to an 80 needle with 40 weight thread otherwise I most often use a size 75. I do use an embroidery needle for nearly every project, even when sewing with metallic threads.